Coastal Engineering and Oceanography (250MAG005) – Course 2025/26 PDF
Contents
Description of the oceans, morphology of the ocean floor, basins, and continental shelves. Presentation of the properties of seawater: salinity, temperature, density, and their role in marine dynamic processes. Introduction to surface (wind-driven) and deep (thermohaline) ocean circulation, as well as the main wave phenomena: tides, currents, and waves. Historical context of coastal engineering, from classic hard solutions to integrated and adaptive approaches. Classification of spatial scales (beach profile, coastal cell, regional basin) and temporal scales (event, seasonal, interannual, secular). Evaluation of sedimentary processes (longitudinal and transverse transport, longshore drift) and their relationship with coastal morphodynamics. Identification of the main types of coastal works (breakwaters, dykes, regeneration, SbN) and establishment of functional design principles, considering the maritime climate, coastal topography, sea levels, and extreme events.
Specific Objectives
Understand the structure and physical properties of the ocean and its relationship with coastal dynamics. Identify the main types of coastal structures and the factors that determine their design and application.
Related Activities
Analysis of ocean CTD profiles. Exercises on seawater properties. Conceptual design of simple coastal structures.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesCharacterization of the ocean-atmosphere interaction as a coupled system, including exchanges of energy (radiation, sensible and latent heat), momentum (wind), and matter (vapor, gases). Evaluation of the role of the ocean as a thermal regulator and essential component of the global climate system. Analysis of the physical properties of seawater: temperature, salinity, pressure, density, and their combination in vertical stratification using variables such as potential temperature and sigma-t. Identification of thermocline, halocline, and pycnocline. Study of vertical stability using Brunt-Väisälä frequency and application of Archimedes' principle. Description of the forces that control ocean circulation: pressure gradient force, Coriolis force, barotropic and baroclinic equilibria. Explanation of geostrophic circulation and global surface currents (Gulf Stream, Kuroshio, Humboldt, Antarctic Circumpolar Current) and deep currents (ocean conveyor belt).
Specific Objectives
Analitzar els processos de circulació oceànica i la seva relació amb la distribució de masses d'aigua. Interpretar les forces físiques que governen el moviment de l'oceà a diferents escales.
Related Activities
Analysis of water mass profiles and current simulation. Practical application of geostrophic equilibrium in real examples.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesAnalysis of the uneven distribution of solar radiation as a driver of atmospheric circulation. Presentation of idealized circulation cells (Hadley, Ferrel, Polar), prevailing winds, and associated climate zones. Review of atmospheric seasonality, thermal gradients, and the influence of phenomena such as El Niño - Southern Oscillation (ENSO) on the redistribution of energy and humidity, and their oceanic implications.
Specific Objectives
Understand the general circulation of the atmosphere and its influence on the ocean. Identify global climate patterns and ocean-atmosphere interaction phenomena.
Related Activities
Interpretation of atmospheric circulation diagrams and analysis of climate time series. Resolution of cases on ENSO events and their impact on coasts.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesCharacterization of the components of the cryosphere (continental ice, sea ice, seasonal snow, permafrost) and their distribution. Analysis of their influence on the planetary energy balance, the hydrological cycle, and ocean circulation. Evaluation of the albedo effect, the formation of deep water through freezing salinization, the role of polynyas, and the storage of carbon and freshwater. Study of glacier and polar ice retreat in response to climate change and its impact on sea level. Inclusion of factors such as bioalbedo, black/brown carbon, the role of permafrost in gas emissions, and the relevance of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current as an oceanic-climatic connector and regulator.
Specific Objectives
Análisis de series temporales de cobertura de hielo. Cálculo del albedo y proyección de escenarios de retroceso glaciar. Discusión de casos reales.
Related Activities
Analysis of time series of ice cover. Calculation of albedo and projection of glacier retreat scenarios. Discussion of real cases.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesExplanation of the generation of tides as long-period waves due to gravitational interaction between the Earth, the Moon, and the Sun. Review of the astronomical (eccentricity, obliquity, precession) and continental factors that determine the types of tides. Characterization of tidal currents in open and confined systems, behavior as progressive or stationary waves, and association with high and low tides. Description of currents induced by level differences in basins or channels. Calculation of vertical velocity profiles using the logarithmic law, application of Soulsby's empirical model, and vertical integration of velocities to estimate shear stress, bottom roughness, and mass and energy fluxes.
Specific Objectives
Interpret the origin and behavior of astronomical and meteorological tides. Apply tidal current models in channels and open coasts.
Related Activities
Calculation of tidal ellipses and induced currents. Simulation of vertical velocity profiles with logarithmic models. Solving exercises with real data.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesDescription of the process of wave generation by wind action: influence of speed, duration, and fetch. Differentiation between local waves (sea) and propagated waves (swell). Presentation of the concept of maturity and equilibrium state of the spectrum. Foundations of linear wave theory using Laplace's equation and boundary conditions. Application to the description of wave propagation and transformation. Introduction to observation approaches, small-scale physical modeling, and numerical modeling.
Specific Objectives
Understand the generation of waves by wind action and their physical characteristics. Apply linear theory to describe the evolution of waves in the open sea.
Related Activities
Application of linear theory to calculate wave parameters. Analysis of wave spectra and simulation of sea states.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesClassification of propagation domains according to the relationship between period and depth (deep, intermediate, shallow water). Study of dispersion and energy flow. Analysis of shoaling, refraction (Snell's law), diffraction and reflection against obstacles. Characterization of wave breaking as a mechanism of energy dissipation in surf zones. Classification of breaker types (spilling, plunging, surging, collapsing) using the Iribarren number and evaluation of their energetic and sedimentary implications.
Specific Objectives
To analyze wave propagation processes at different depths. To understand the mechanisms of breakup and their classification according to the type of breaker.
Related Activities
Calculation of wave propagation and refraction. Classification of break types from images and numerical simulations.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesApplication of the radiation tensor (Sxx and Syy components) as a tool for wave momentum analysis in breaker zones. Evaluation of setup (mean sea level rise) and setdown (depression) by means of momentum balance. Characterization of wave induced currents: longitudinal currents (longshore), rip currents and cell circulation. Study of the factors that control these currents: angle of incidence, radiation tensor gradient, bottom friction and turbulent mixing.
Specific Objectives
To apply the radiation tensor concept to the analysis of mean sea level in breaker zones. Identify and characterize wave induced currents.
Related Activities
Simplified set-up and set-down modeling. Simulation of induced currents and analysis of circulation patterns in surf zones.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesAnalysis of coastal morphodynamics and its feedback with hydrodynamic forcing. Evaluation of beach states (reflective vs. dissipative), seasonal profiles, and the concept of equilibrium profile. Application of morphological criteria by Wright & Short, Dean, and Larson & Kraus. Definition of net and gross sediment transport. Review of measurement techniques (tracers, traps, sensors) and application of empirical formulations for calculating longitudinal transport rates on sandy beaches.
Specific Objectives
Understand sediment transport processes on the coast and their relationship with morphodynamics. Apply empirical models to estimate transport rates.
Related Activities
Interpretation of beach profiles and use of empirical formulations for transport calculation. Analysis of sediment balances.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesIntroduction to the fundamental concepts of water quality and pollution, understood as any alteration that degrades the natural conditions of the environment. Classification of pollutants into non-toxic, assimilable, and toxic types, and analysis of key magnitudes such as concentration and dilution. Identification of the main sources of pollution (outfalls, runoff, discharges), and study of the physical processes that control the dispersion and transformation of pollutants: initial dilution, diffusion, advection, coastal circulation, as well as hydrocarbon decay and aging. Presentation of water quality indicators, such as dissolved oxygen or the presence of coliforms, applied to real cases of coastal pollution.
Specific Objectives
Understand the sources and types of pollution in coastal environments. Apply water quality criteria based on measurable parameters.
Related Activities
Analysis of water quality data and dispersion simulation. Case studies of point and diffuse coastal pollution.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesClassification of continental inputs: surface discharges (rivers, runoff, urban drainage) and underground (SGD). Study of plume formation, mixing zones, and salinity gradients. Assessment of sedimentary and morphological impacts (deltas, bars, localized erosion/accretion). Consideration of implications for water quality (nutrients, pollutants, hypoxia). Description of underground discharge mechanisms, detection methods, and relevance in coastal studies.
Specific Objectives
Identify continental inputs to the coastal system and their hydrodynamic and sedimentary effects. Assess their impact on water quality and coastal ecosystems.
Related Activities
Interpretation of satellite images and hydrological series. Analysis of turbidity plumes and assessment of SGD using tracers.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesClassification of rigid structures: breakwaters, groynes, vertical walls. Establishment of design criteria: significant height, crest elevation, cant, run-up, and overtopping. Evaluation of induced morphodynamic effects: alteration of coastal transport, generation of wave shadow zones, reflection, generation of currents. Environmental impact analysis and functional criteria for integration into the coastal environment.
Specific Objectives
To learn about the types of rigid structures used in coastal protection and their design principles. To evaluate their effects on coastal dynamics and the environment.
Related Activities
Functional design of a breakwater or dike. Evaluation of the impact on coastal transport using conceptual models.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classesDefinition and justification of NBS as an alternative to rigid solutions. Classification of types: stabilized dunes, marshes, mangroves, reefs, seagrass beds, and hybrid solutions. Description of ecosystem services: wave reduction, water quality improvement, carbon sequestration. Establishment of ecological and functional criteria: elevation, slope, key species, resilience, adaptive monitoring.
Specific Objectives
Analyze the potential of nature-based solutions as a coastal adaptation strategy. Evaluate their functional, ecological, and social feasibility.
Related Activities
Conceptual design of a nature-based solution. Evaluation of its effectiveness through ecological and functional indicators.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Medium groupIntegrated application of knowledge acquired in physical oceanography, coastal dynamics, and coastal engineering to a real or representative case of a coastal area. Development of an environmental diagnosis based on the problems identified and the analysis of oceanographic, climatic, and sedimentary information. Evaluation of dominant forces (waves, tides, wind, continental inputs). Identification of specific problems in the study area (such as erosion, flooding, coastline retreat, habitat loss, or water quality deterioration). Estimation of risks and vulnerabilities using physical and environmental indicators. Formulation of intervention and adaptation proposals based on criteria of sustainability, functionality, and resilience. Comparison of structural (hard) measures and nature-based solutions, considering environmental impacts, cost-benefit, and social acceptance. Development of recommendations for integrated coastal management. This topic can be addressed as a final group project, including mapping, design diagrams, interpretation of real or simulated data, and a technical justification of the proposed solution.
Specific Objectives
Integrate the knowledge acquired to diagnose coastal problems and propose solutions. Formulate technically justified and environmentally sustainable interventions.
Related Activities
An integrative study of a coastal area: data collection and analysis, environmental diagnosis, and a justified technical proposal.
Dedication
2h 30m Large group + 30m Laboratory classes