Introduction to the course

Specific Objectives

Basic objectives of the course and approach. Definition of the problem concept (processes vs. problems). Definition of the coastal zone as a multicomponent system (physical, ecological and socio-economic). Concept of temporal and spatial scales for the definition of processes, problems and solutions. Basic typology of coastal problems and conceptual solutions.

Dedication

Regular wave basics Regular Swell Basic Aspects of Irregular Waves Irregular swell Fundamental aspects of wave propagation and breaking Wave Propagation and Breaking Radiation Stress. Radiation Tensor Concept Coastal currents Coastal currents Sea level variations Sea Level Variations

Specific Objectives

Assumptions made and field of validity. Small amplitude waves. Movement of particles. Group speed. Energy and energy flow. Wave Generation. Statistical description of the waves. Spectral description. Average wave regime. Temporary regime. Return periods. Shoaling. Refraction. Diffraction. Reflection. Break. Edge wave generation. Processes associated with wave asymmetry and breakage. Radiation Tensor. Variation in sea level due to breakage of the waves. Wave breaking as a driving agent. Current systems: longshore, in cells and cross-shore to the beach and the response of the beach. Generation of Meteorological Tides. Components of the meteorological tide. Prediction. Sea level measurements with Tide Gauges. Analysis techniques (Time Series and Trend Analysis).

Dedication

Dedication

Fundamental aspects of the mechanics of sediment transport Sediment transport mechanics Sediment Transversal Transport Cross-shore Sediment Transport Longshore Sediment Transport Longitudinal Sediment Transport Aeolian Sediment Transport

Specific Objectives

Logarithmic Velocity Profile. Boundary layer concept. Prandtl Mixing Theory. Fluid-Sediment Interaction. Start of Transportation. Formulations for Swell, Currents and Combined Flow. Driving Agents. Balance profile concept. The role of transverse transport in coastal changes. Parameters that determine transport. Transversal transport models. Driving Agents. The role of longitudinal transport in coastal changes. Integrated longitudinal transport. Local transportation. Calculation of longitudinal transport. Integrated Formulations (CERC, Kamphuis). Driving Agents. The role of aeolian sediment transport in the generation of Dunas. Parameters that determine transport.

Dedication

Coastal Evolution Coastal Evolution Models Coastal Evolution Models Morphodynamic Impact of Structures

Specific Objectives

Balance concept. Active depth concept. Sedimentary balance. Changes in the shoreline and beach profile. Analytical models in plan and profile. Model of a line for plant changes. Profile change models. 2DH models. Large-scale models. Calibration and validation of the models. Typology of coastal protection structures. Walls, Breakwaters and Dikes exempted. Functional design and impact.

Dedication