Coastal Hydromorphodynamics (250581) – Course 2024/25 PDF
Activities
Wave generation. Statistical description of the waves. Spectral description. Average swell regime. Storm regime. Return periods.
Dedication
1hShoaling. Refraction. Diffraction. Reflection. Rupture. Generation of edge waves.
Dedication
1hMeteorological tide generation. Components of the meteorological tide. Prediction. Sea level measurements with tide gauges. Analysis techniques (Time Series and Trend Analysis).
Dedication
1hLogarithmic Velocity Profile. Boundary layer concept. Prandtl Mixing Theory. Fluid-Sediment Interaction. Start of Transportation. Formulations for Swell, Currents and Combined Flow.
Dedication
1hDriving agents. Concept of equilibrium profile. The role of transverse transport in coastal changes. Parameters that determine transport. Models of transverse transport.
Dedication
1hDriving Agents. The role of longitudinal transport in coastal changes. Integrated longitudinal transport. Local transportation. Calculation of longitudinal transport. Integrated Formulations (CERC, Kamphuis).
Dedication
1h